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Men's dress shoes: the quick guide
If you only own one pair of dress shoes, make it a plain black leather lace-up. It works for interviews, weddings, funerals and the office. Our dress range includes cap-toe lace-ups like the Tilden Cap and Craft James Cap, plus the Regan cap-toe derby, the Devon and the Dorset Chelsea boot, mostly in our standard men's G width.
Which dress shoe for which occasion?
- Job interview or funeral: black leather cap-toe lace-up, polished.
- Wedding guest: black with a dark suit, or brown with navy, grey or a lighter summer suit.
- Long days on your feet: a cushioned style like the Tilden Walk, or the Aldwin Step if you'd rather skip laces.
Oxford or derby?
On an oxford, the lacing panels are stitched under the front of the shoe, which gives a sleeker, more formal look. On a derby, they sit on top, so the shoe opens wider and is easier to get on if you have a high instep or wide foot. For formal events, choose an oxford. For everyday office wear, either works.
Will they be comfortable?
Leather dress shoes feel firm at first and soften over the first week or two. Wear them around the house for an hour or so a day before a big event, and don't save a brand new pair for the day of a wedding. If they pinch across the widest part of your foot from day one, the width is wrong, not the size.
For smart shoes you'll wear every day, see men's work shoes. For smart casual, try men's loafers.
Frequently asked questions
What colour dress shoes should I buy first?
Black. It's the only colour that works for every formal occasion, including interviews and funerals. Dark brown is a great second pair for navy and grey suits.
Can I wear brown shoes with a black suit?
It's best avoided. Black suits look right with black shoes. Save brown for navy, grey, blue and tan suits.
What's the difference between an oxford and a derby?
An oxford has closed lacing for a sleeker, more formal look. A derby has open lacing, which is easier to fit over a high instep or wide foot.
Should my belt match my shoes?
Yes. Match the colour and keep the shade close: black with black, dark brown with dark brown.
How do I break in new dress shoes before an event?
Wear them at home with normal dress socks for an hour or so a day for a week or two. A leather conditioner helps the upper soften.